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Description: So we drive through Saturday and pull in nat the evening car park: artic lorries, shopsnfor fast food, ice cream, the great white elephantantry nof shiny statues, rosaries, scapulars, allnnthe luggage you might need for what loured ahead: nblue-green slopes decapitated by cloud, nthe most ominous-looking mountain I ever dreamednof setting foot onnn**nnyet already there, above the burger stand,nthe variously coloured trickle is in place: npeople marking a zigzag route, a bright nsprinkle of hundr